Cosmetics

Traditionally in Southern India, people have been using turmeric, green gram powder, henna, sigaikai and usilai for their skin and hair care. These were mostly home prepared products that are used for grooming. Today, cosmetics have a high commercial value and have become chemical based industrial products. Providing personal care services has become a major industry. In recent years, people have realized the hazards of chemical- based cosmetics and are turning back to natural products. In this chapter one of the major plants namely Aloe which is used in the cosmetic industries is discussed.

Aloe Botanical name : Aloe vera Family: Asphodelaceae (formerly Liliaceae)

Origin and Area of cultivation: It is a native of Sudan. It is cultivated on a large scale in Rajasthan, Gujarat, Maharashtra, Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu.

Uses ‘Aloin’ (a mixture of glucosides) and its gel are used as skin tonic. It has a cooling effect and moisturizing characteristics and hence used in preparation of creams, lotions, shampoos, shaving creams, after shave lotions and allied products. It is used in gerontological applications for rejuvenation of aging skin. Products prepared from aloe leaves have multiple properties such as emollient, antibacterial, antioxidant, antifungal and antiseptic. Aloe vera gel is used in skin care cosmetics.

The word perfume is derived from the Latin word Per (through) and **fumus (to smoke), meaning through smoke. It refers to the age-old tradition of burning scented woods at religious ceremonies.In early days, when people were less conscious of personal hygiene, essential oils not only masked offensive odours, but also may have acted as antiseptics. Perfumes are added to baths and used for anointing the body.

Perfumes are manufactured from essential oil which are volatile and aromatic. Essential oils are found at different parts of the plant such as leaves, (curry leaf, mint), flowers (rose, jasmine), fruits (citrus, straw berry) and wood (sandal, eucalyptus).

Jasmine Botanical name : Jasminum grandiflorum Family: Oleaceae

Jasmine, as a floral perfume, ranks next to the rose oil. Major species cultivated on the commercial scale is Jasminum grandiflorum, a native of the north-western Himalayas. In Tamil Nadu, the major jasmine cultivation centres are Madurai and Thovalai of Kanyakumari District. The essential oil is present in the epidermal cells of the inner and outer surfaces of both the sepals and petals. One ton of Jasmine blossom yields about 2.5 to 3 kg of essential oil, comprising 0.25 to 3% of the weight of the fresh flower.

Uses Jasmine flowers have been used since ancient times in India for worship, ceremonial purposes, incense and fumigants, as well as for making perfumed hair oils, cosmetics and soaps. Jasmine oil is an essential oil that is valued for its soothing, relaxing, antidepressant qualities.

Jasmine blends well with other perfumes. It is much used in modern perfumery and cosmetics and has become popular in air freshners, anti-perspirants, talcum powders, shampoos and deodorants.

Madurai Malli

‘Madurai Malli’ is the pride of Madurai has a distinct reputation universally because of its uniqueness and has been given the Geographical Indications (GI) mark by the Geographical indication Registry of India. Madurai malli has thick petals with long stalk equal to that of petals and the distinct fragrance is due to the presence of chemicals such as jasmine and alpha terpineol. This makes it easy to distinguish Madurai Malli from other places. This is the second GI tag for Jasmine after ‘Mysore Malli’.

Rose Botanical name : Rosa X damascena Family: Rosaceae

Origin and Area of cultivation: R.X damascena, has its origin from the Middle East. Major scented rose cultivating states include Rajasthan, Delhi, Haryana, Maharashtra, West Bengal, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu. Rose oil is one of the oldest and most expensive of perfume oils. The oil is concentrated in the epidermal cells on the inner surface of the petals.The average oil yield is a little less than 0.5 g. from 1000 g. of flowers.

Uses Rose oil is largely used in perfumes, scenting soaps, flavouring soft drinks, liqueurs and certain types of tobacco, particularly snuff of chewing tobacco.

Rose water (panneer) containing much of phenylethyl alcohol and other compounds in dissolved confectioneries syrups and soft drinks. In India, the water is much used in eye lotions and eye-washes. In addition, it is sprinkled on guests as a ceremonial welcome.

Sandalwood Botanical name : Santalum album Family: Santalaceae Origin and Area of cultivation: Sandal tree is native of South East Asia. Karnataka and Tamil Nadu are states that possess large natural populations of Santalum album in India. The heart-wood is scented due to the presence of santalol, from which oil is extracted. The oil yield from a wood chips, varies from 4-5%

Jasmine Rose Figure 10.20

being the highest when distilled from roots (10% of the dry weight). Uses Sandalwood oil is a valuable fixative for other fragrances due to the excellent blending properties. More than 90% of the oil is used in the manufacture of scented soaps, talcum powder, face powder, creams, hair oils, hand lotions as well as in perfumery and pharmaceutical industries.